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Dave T
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Post subject: Longbow ? Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2008 4:31 pm |
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Joined: Thu Feb 05, 2004 4:01 am Posts: 744 Location: Mesa, Arizona
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Todd Hathaway
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Post subject: Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2008 4:57 pm |
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Joined: Sat Oct 18, 2003 3:01 am Posts: 636 Location: Central New York
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longbowguy
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Post subject: Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2008 9:48 pm |
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Joined: Mon Jun 14, 2004 3:01 am Posts: 303 Location: Sacramento, CA
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Dave T
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Post subject: Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2008 11:07 pm |
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Joined: Thu Feb 05, 2004 4:01 am Posts: 744 Location: Mesa, Arizona
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longbowguy
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Post subject: Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2008 11:15 pm |
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Joined: Mon Jun 14, 2004 3:01 am Posts: 303 Location: Sacramento, CA
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Todd Hathaway
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Post subject: Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2008 6:23 pm |
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Joined: Sat Oct 18, 2003 3:01 am Posts: 636 Location: Central New York
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Rob DiStefano
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Post subject: Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2008 9:25 pm |
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Joined: Sat Aug 28, 2004 3:01 am Posts: 457 Location: North Jersey
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The nature of those reflex "Hill style" longbows makes it difficult to avert some kinda "hand shock". I've owned and desperately tried to love more than a half dozen Hills (and other reflex longbows such as the Sunset).
If that classic braced D shape is desired, there are more than a few good mild r/d longbows that are IFAA legal (well, maybe - who knows for sure, not even the IFAA), and will be aesthetically pleasing along with the added benefit of more arrow speed than a similar holding weight and length Hill style longbow.
I've surrendered all my hybrid aggressive r/d longbows in favor of that classic D mild r/d - Mohawk longbows, to be more specific. Zero "hand shock" as long as one feeds it arrows at, or near, 10gpp. I'm also particularly fond of the very narrow target style grip that Vince creates for me, as well. This isn't a testimonial or shill for Mohawk, but I've found 'Hawks to be the best compromise of stability, speed and aesthetics - for me. There are other mild r/d longbows that are similar to (though IMHO, none better than a Mohawk), such as the Horne Traditionalist (I owned a pair of them at one time) and the stealth hybrids such as the Edge (though those kinda longbows lose a goodly amount of stability and react much more like a recurve than a classic D braced longbow, IMO).
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Dave T
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Post subject: Posted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 10:20 pm |
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Joined: Thu Feb 05, 2004 4:01 am Posts: 744 Location: Mesa, Arizona
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I happened across the Fedora web site and noticed they make 70" longbows. Interesting, as many don't get over 66". In trading e-mails with them I am considering a mild R/D with a Hill style grip in the low 40# range. I don't hunt anymore and this should be enough to stick arrows in paper without doing further damage to my aging shoulders.
I always thought Fedora was known for their recurves but they seem to be into the longbow as well. Any of you folks back East where the Fedora is better known ever seen, shot or owned one of their longbows?
Dave
Last edited by Dave T on Sun Aug 10, 2008 10:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
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longbowguy
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Post subject: Posted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 11:56 pm |
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Joined: Mon Jun 14, 2004 3:01 am Posts: 303 Location: Sacramento, CA
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Yo Dave: Considering another attempt at the longbow! Good for you. You might ask them if they can make you a 72 incher, considering your other-worldly draw length. And you might consider going even lighter in draw weight. My Edge is probably after rework down to less than 40 pounds at 28 and at my 30" or so draw length gives ample arrow speed with 500 grain arrows. And with tapered 5/16" shafts and 70 grain points you would be able to get down close to 400 grains. And with a thin tab or a Damascus glove and a first groove hook you could take a half inch or so off your draw length, so you would have an easier time getting long enough shafts. Speaking of which, Dan Seifert of Wapiti Archery might be willing to custom make you some extra length shafts. Tell him I said so. Finally, you might consider a shot weighted glove for your bow hand, at least in practice, to avoid tendon strain, plus a tennis elbow strap. - lbg
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longbowguy
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Post subject: Posted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 11:58 pm |
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Joined: Mon Jun 14, 2004 3:01 am Posts: 303 Location: Sacramento, CA
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And if it doesn't work out, I might take the bow off your hands........at a good price. - lbg
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Rob DiStefano
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Post subject: Posted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 5:52 am |
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Joined: Sat Aug 28, 2004 3:01 am Posts: 457 Location: North Jersey
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I've had mild r/d longbows in the 62" to 70" range, and without a doubt to me, no matter who the bowyer the shorter ones were simply faster. A good mild r/d design will be shock free and just as stable no matter what the overall length, and it comes down to arrow length and finger pinch.
My true draw length is a good 29" and my first Mohawks were both a custom 64" and a "stock" 62". I couldn't tell the difference between them, with regards to "finger pinch", they really felt the same. The 62" was a tad faster (I used a Chrony) and so the 64" was sold. Particularly with holding weights under 45# to 50# or so, shorter limbs are a good 'n' wise advantage in a reflex to mild r/d longbow, IMO.
IMO, true Tonkin cane limb cores (and veneers, too) are the icing on the cake for any stickbow - Tonkin cane (not action 'boo or lam'boo) makes for an incredibly smooth draw and release. To aid stability and speed, also look for a trapped limb cross section.
I've never shot or held a Fedora longbow, but I have shot more than a few of Mike's recurves.
Testimonial time - I'd been on a decades long quest for a mild r/d longbow that held the classic D shape at brace, that was a joy to hold, that drew like butter and released like a whisper, with really good arrow speed. Finally found what I was after in the Mohawk. Vince will selectively send out a loaner to try out. Dave, give Vince a call or email, ask to try out a bow, and do mention my name. You have nothing to lose but maybe $15 shipping. Vince sends out all his bows in strong PVC tubes.
64" that I sold ...
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Dave T
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Post subject: Posted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 10:15 am |
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Joined: Thu Feb 05, 2004 4:01 am Posts: 744 Location: Mesa, Arizona
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Rob,
I know you mean well and I appreciate the recommendation but the longest bow he makes is 66" (like so many others). Been there and stacked that. The shortest I would consider is a 68" and I've been told by any number of bowyers (including a couple who didn't make them that long) I should have at least a 70" longbow. That option was what got my attention at the Fedora web site. We shall see. (smiley face goes here)
Dave
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Rob DiStefano
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Post subject: Posted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 2:59 pm |
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Joined: Sat Aug 28, 2004 3:01 am Posts: 457 Location: North Jersey
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Dave, what's yer draw length?
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Dave T
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Post subject: Posted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 5:50 pm |
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Joined: Thu Feb 05, 2004 4:01 am Posts: 744 Location: Mesa, Arizona
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From the nock groove to the front of the shelf on my recurves is an honest 32.75". Guess that translates to a "true draw" of 31".
I played with a 66" recurve a while back and after 75-100 arrows the finger pinch started to get to my ring finger. These days I won't shoot a recurve shorter than 68" and the same restriction applies to longbows.
Dave
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Rob DiStefano
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Post subject: Posted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 6:09 pm |
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Joined: Sat Aug 28, 2004 3:01 am Posts: 457 Location: North Jersey
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That's a heaping handfulla draw length ya got there, Dave! Yeah, now I hear ya - you NEED a 70" longbow! You might wanna ring up or email Vince - maybe he's got a 70" bow jig ... man, you would totally dig the smoothness of his longbows.
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