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| bare saft tunning carbons(glue) http://staf.trinitylongbowmen.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=925 |
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| Author: | flyguysc [ Thu Jun 04, 2009 10:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | bare saft tunning carbons(glue) |
Anyone have any Ideas about what glue to use while bare shaft tuning carbons Iknowthat epoxy would be the final solution,but would take a long time to dry in between rounds If I had to trim . Thanks in advance Gary |
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| Author: | Todd Hathaway [ Fri Jun 05, 2009 1:09 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Two options: 1) epoxy the insert in from the beginning, then cut down the nock end since the nock is easily removable. 2) take a small bit of plastic from a plastic bag or something, and push it in the shaft with (around) the insert. That slight bit of extra diameter will keep the insert snug, yet not so snug you can't pull it out with some effort. |
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| Author: | Bender [ Fri Jun 05, 2009 3:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Todd, I take it that your method works well enough to not wind up with the point and insert getting stuck and left behind in the target when you pull the arrow? Or should certain target materials be avoided when doing this? |
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| Author: | Todd Hathaway [ Fri Jun 05, 2009 5:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I've never had a problem with it coming out. I've never tried it in 3D foam, just bag targets. |
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| Author: | Dave T [ Fri Jun 05, 2009 11:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I've always just used hot melt. Not quite as much as when I finally assemble but enough to hold a point or an insert in place for testing. Never damaged a carbon shaft using it, but then I take reasonable precautions when heating the point to get it out. Dave |
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| Author: | Bender [ Fri Jun 05, 2009 11:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yes, actually I too use hot melt. Its not a method I would reccomend for beginners to use on carbons though. I've got procedures and precautions too it works well for me. Nonetheless Todd's method may bear looking into because no matter how careful I am, I'm just not happy with the idea of applying heat 2 or 3 or more times during tuning. It just can't be good. You know I just don't the whole "cut from the nock end" idea. When I'm bareshafting I have some that are bare and some that are fletched and comparing them. Can't cut very much at all off that fletched end. |
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| Author: | Todd Hathaway [ Sat Jun 06, 2009 12:19 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yeah, that's the downside to cutting the nock end. I've used hot-melt too, but I mostly worry about it messing up the adhesion of the final glue-in. |
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